Affordable Concrete Footing Forms

Exploring ways to save in concrete footing forms are common practice for do it yourself builders. Footing concrete form are very simple especially continuous footing forms. For circular footings or round concrete piers sonotube concrete form is the best way to go. For styrofoam click here where you will find very cost effective way to pour footings and foundation while at the same time provide save on energy.

The fact that most footings are buried underground makes them relatively easy and inexpensive to build. While constructing footings, the 3 most important things to watch for are its location, thickness or depth, and the width.

The location of continuous footings it is very important in that they must be centered on the walls that they support. Likewise concrete piers or columns must be centered on the spot footing below. Should the load are not centered on the footings, they will create eccentric loading which will greatly alter the design.

The depths or heights of footings are important in that they are directly related to the weight of the structure they carry. Footings built too thin will crack prematurely causing structural failure.

The widths of the footings are calculated based on the weight of the structure and the steadiness of the soil. Footing built too narrow will lead to structural settlement.

The easiest footing form is the dirt itself. If the footings can be dug in such a way that the dirt becomes the form, that would be the ideal and most cost effective to pour footing. This will require very creative way to place the rebars and level the top of the footing but it is very effective.

The next least expensive way to form footings is to use the framing materials as I have done so many times.

For 10 inch thick footings, 2x10 floor joists or combination of 2x4 & 2x6 can do the job. Door and window headers in most cases are 2x10s.

Going this route requires extra care to not damage the materials that will be reuse for framing. Diesel oil in most cases is used as release agent, often sprayed on the forms so they don't bond with concrete making it easier to remove.

For lumbers that will be reused for framing, oil or any release agent will make them flammable. You can get around not spraying the form by having these forms removed within 24 hours of the pour.

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